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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.